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How to Create a Picture in Picture Effect in Photoshop

Learn how to create a picture-in-picture effect in Photoshop from a single photo by adding a smaller, cropped version of your image inside the original! A step-by-step tutorial.

Written by Steve Patterson.

In this tutorial, I show you how to create a fun picture-in-picture effect with Photoshop by taking a single photo and creating the illusion that a smaller, cropped version of the same photo is inside it. We’ll crop and rotate the smaller image around our main subject, add a border and drop shadow to make it stand out, and we’ll convert the original photo behind it to black and white.

Here’s an example of what the final picture-in-picture effect will look like when we’re done:

The final effect.

Let’s get started!

Download this tutorial as a print-ready PDF!

Which Photoshop version do I need?

For best results, you’ll want to be using Photoshop 2023 or later. Get the latest version of Photoshop here.

Step 1: Open your image

Start by opening your image. I’ll use this image from Adobe Stock:

The original photo.

Step 2: Make a copy of the Background layer

In the Layers panel, the image opens on the Background layer:

The Layers panel.

Make a copy of the image by dragging the Background layer down onto the Add New Layer icon:

Dragging the Background layer onto the Add New Layer icon.

A copy appears above the original:

A Background copy layer appears.

Step 3: Rename the copy Small

Renaming the layer.

Step 4: Turn the Small layer off Step 5: Select the Background layer

Selecting the Background layer.

Step 6: Add a Black & White adjustment layer

And choose a Black & White adjustment layer from the list:

Choosing Black & White.

The adjustment layer appears between the Background layer and the Small layer. This means it will affect only the Background layer below it, not the Small layer above it:

The adjustment layer is added above the Background layer.

And the image is instantly converted to black and white:

The result after adding the Black & White adjustment layer.

The controls for the Black & White adjustment layer appear in Photoshop’s Properties panel. You could fine-tune the black and white conversion by dragging the individual color sliders (Reds, Yellows, Greens, and so on) to adjust the brightness of different parts of the image based on their original color:

The color sliders in the Properties panel.

Step 8: Select and turn on the Small layer

Now we’ll create the smaller, full color photo inside the original.

Selecting the Small layer.

Turning on the Small layer.

The color version of the image reappears:

The result after turning on the Small layer.

Step 9: Select the Rectangle Tool

In the toolbar, select the Rectangle Tool. Don’t select the Rectangular Marquee Tool near the top since that’s a selection tool. We want the Rectangle Tool which is one of Photoshop’s shape tools:

Selecting the Rectangle Tool from the toolbar.

Step 10: Set the Tool Mode to Shape

In the Options Bar, make sure the Tool Mode is set to Shape, not Path or Pixels:

Setting the Tool Mode to Shape.

Step 11: Set the shape’s color to black

Set the shape’s color to black if it’s not set to black already. The color does not really matter, but black is easy to see as we’re drawing the shape.

Opening the Color Picker.

Choosing black from the Color Picker.

Step 12: Turn off the stroke around the shape

Choosing No Color for the stroke.

Step 13: Draw a shape around your main subject

Drag out a rectangular shape around your main subject(s). The shape will become the smaller version of the image, so make sure to surround everything that should appear inside it.

Drawing a rectangular shape around the main subjects in the photo.

How to reposition the shape

To reposition the shape as you draw it, keep your mouse held down and press and hold the spacebar on your keyboard. Drag the shape to where you need it, and then release your spacebar and continue dragging out the rest of the shape.

How to complete the shape

Release your mouse button when you’re done to complete the shape, at which point Photoshop fills it with black:

Releasing your mouse button completes the shape.

Step 14: Resize the shape if needed

Since the shape is completely blocking the image behind it, it’s hard to see if it was drawn exactly where we need it. So to see the image through the shape, lower the Opacity of the shape layer in the Layers panel to 50 percent. A quick way is to press the number 5 on your keyboard:

Press 5 to lower the shape’s opacity to 50 percent.

Resizing the shape by dragging the handles.

Resetting the shape’s opacity back to 100 percent

When you’re done resizing the shape, reset the shape layer’s opacity in the Layers panel back to 100 percent by pressing the number 0 on your keyboard. The shape will once again block the image from view:

Press 0 to reset the shape’s opacity to 100 percent.

Step 15: Drag the Small layer above the shape

Next, we’ll place the image on the Small layer into the shape. In the Layers panel, the shape currently sits above the image:

The shape layer is above the image.

Dragging the image above the shape layer.

Release your mouse button to drop the Small layer into place:

The image has been moved above the shape.

And in the document, the photo now blocks the shape from view:

The photo is now blocking the shape.

Step 16: Create a clipping mask

And choose Create Clipping Mask:

Choosing the Create Clipping Mask command.

Photoshop clips the image on the Small layer to the shape layer below it:

The Layers panel showing the image layer clipped to the shape layer.

And the full color image now appears only within the boundaries of the shape, while the black and white version on the Background layer reappears around it:

The result after clipping the Small layer to the shape layer.

Related: Learn more about Clipping Masks

Step 17: Select the shape layer

To help the smaller image stand out, add a white border and a drop shadow. We’ll start with the border.

In the Layers panel, select the shape layer:

Selecting the shape layer.

Step 18: Add a white stroke around the shape

And choose Stroke from the list:

Adding a Stroke layer effect.

The stroke color

Choosing white from the Color Picker.

The stroke position

Back in the Layer Style dialog box, make sure the stroke’s Position is set to Inside to keep the corners of the border nice and sharp:

Setting the Position to Inside.

The stroke size

Then drag the Size slider to set the width of the border. The size you need will depend on your image. I’ll set mine to 40 pixels:

Use the Size slider to set the border size.

And here’s the effect with the border around the smaller photo:

The effect with the border added.

Step 19: Add a drop shadow

Selecting the Drop Shadow effect.

The shadow’s angle and distance

Dragging the shadow down and to the right.

Or you can enter specific Angle and Distance values in the dialog box. I’ll set the Angle to 135 degrees and the Distance to 50 pixels. You may need a smaller or larger Distance value depending on your image:

Entering specific Angle and Distance values.

The shadow size

The Size value controls the softness or feathering of the shadow edges. I’ll set it to 15 pixels:

Softening the shadow edges by increasing the size.

The shadow opacity

And you can adjust the intensity of the shadow (how light or dark it appears) by dragging the Opacity slider. But I’ll leave it at the default value of 35 percent:

Leaving the Opacity at the default value.

The effect with the border and drop shadow added.

Step 20: Rotate the shape

Finally, you can add more excitement to the effect by rotating the shape around your subject.

In the Layers panel, make sure the shape layer is active:

Selecting the shape layer in the Layers panel.

And with the Rectangle Tool still active in the toolbar, hover your mouse cursor just outside one of the shape’s handles. The cursor will change into a Rotate icon (a curved line with an arrow on both ends):

Hover near a handle to get the Rotate icon.

Rotating the smaller photo around the main subjects.

Step 21: Make any final adjustments to the shape’s size

Check to make sure that the rotated shape is not cutting off parts of your subject, and resize the shape again if needed by dragging the handles.

When you’re done, hide the outline and handles around the shape by pressing Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) on your keyboard.

And here, after extending the bottom of the shape to avoid cutting off part of the woman’s thumb, is my final picture-in-picture effect:

The final effect.

Where to go next…

And there we have it! TFor similar effects, check out my step-by-step tutorials on how to turn a single photo in a collage, how to create a polaroid collage, or how to add a classic photo border to your images. And don’t forget, all of my tutorials are available to download as PDFs!

You're reading How To Create A Picture In Picture Effect In Photoshop

How To Change Default User Account Picture In Windows 10

Every time you create a new user account in Windows, it will set a default user account picture. In Windows 10 the default picture is a very generic wireframe user icon on a dark grey background. Users can update the user account picture from the control panel or the Settings app.

If you don’t like the default user account icon, you can change it to the icon or picture of your choice. You can even standardize the default user account icon by preventing users from changing it.

Change Default Account Picture

Windows stores the default user account icon in the PNG format within a system folder in a variety of sizes. By replacing these default pictures with the icon of our choice, we can change the default account picture.

1. First, download the picture or icon of your choice that is at least 512px x 512px. Make sure that the width and height are the same. Now, create five copies of the icon and resize and rename them as follows:

448 x 448 – user.png

192 x 192 – user-192.png

48 x 48 – user-48.png

40 x 40 – user-40.png

32 x 32 – user-32.png

2. Once you are done, launch File Explorer and go to the “%ProgramData%MicrosoftUser Account Pictures” folder. Here you will see all the default user account icons.

3. Rename “user.png,” “user-192.png,” “user-48.png,” “user-40.png,” and “user-32.png” to “user.png.bkp,” “user-192.png.bkp,” “user-48.png.bkp,” “user-40.png.bkp,” and “user-32.png.bkp” respectively. You can ignore the “user.bmp” file.

Note: If you don’t want to go through the renaming process, you can simply delete or replace them. But if you do that, you might not be able to restore the default icons when needed. You can simply copy the icons from another system though.

4. After renaming, copy and paste the earlier resized and renamed icons into the “User Account Pictures” folder. This is how it looks once you are done.

5. Finally, restart your system.

From now on, whenever you create a new user account or when a user doesn’t set the user account picture, the modified custom icon will appear.

Prevent Changing Account Picture Using Group Policy

If you don’t want users to change their user account picture, you can block that option using the Group Policy editor.

That is all. Once the system is restarted, users will no longer be able to change the default account picture.

If you want to revert back, select either the “Disabled” or “Not configured” option in the policy properties window.

Prevent Changing Account Picture Using Registry

If you don’t have access to the Group Policy Editor, you can do the same thing via Registry Editor.

2. In the Registry Editor go to the following location:

If you want to revert back, either change the value data to “0” or delete the value.

Comment below sharing your thoughts and experiences regarding using the above method to change the default user account picture in Windows.

Vamsi Krishna

Vamsi is a tech and WordPress geek who enjoys writing how-to guides and messing with his computer and software in general. When not writing for MTE, he writes for he shares tips, tricks, and lifehacks on his own blog Stugon.

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How To Create A Sun Glare Effect In Adobe Premiere Pro

A sun or lens glare effect can be a great addition to a video, especially if you want to put some emphasis on a landscape or environmental shot. It can also be a neat effect or transition for music videos. It’s an effect that you can do through the camera itself; however, it can be much easier to add it during video editing to get the desired effect. 

Adobe Premiere Pro CC makes it very easy for beginners to add lens glare effects, as they have some specific effects already created to help achieve it. Using these effects as a base, you can alter them in the Effect Controls panel and make them look like you want. In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to use the lens glare effects and how to edit them to your desire. 

Table of Contents

How to Add a Sun Glare Effect

You’ll first need to place the clip you want to have a sun glare effect on the timeline in the spot you want. Then, you can follow the steps below to add your sun glare. 

Once applied, you’ll see that it’s just a static optical flare image, and you’ll want to make a few changes, so it looks natural. 

Editing the Sun Glare Effect

Select the clip you applied the Lens Flare effect to, and look in the Effect Controls panel. Under Lens Flare, there will be quite a few options for you to tweak so that it fits your video. You can preview the changes in the video playback panel. 

Look at the Flare Center option. This will allow you to change the placement of the lens flare. You can move it up and down, or left and right. 

Under Flare Brightness, you can change the intensity of the main point of light to create a dim or bright light. You can change this to match your footage’s light levels. 

Use the Lens Type option to emulate the lens flare effect of different types of lenses. You can change this if one of the options looks better to you. 

The Blend With Original option helps you blend the lens flare into the clip, which changes the opacity and blending mode of the effect if you want a subtle look. 

Knowing these options will come in handy as we will animate the lens flare. You rarely see a static lens flare in a video since it comes about through the actual movement of the lens and an external light source. Read on to learn how to animate the lens flare effect in a way that looks natural. 

Animating the Lens Flare Effect

If you’re not familiar with using keyframes in Adobe Premiere Pro, read our article on keyframes first, so you have a good handle on the basics. Then, follow these steps to animate your lens flare light effect. 

Now, move your timeline cursor to the point in the video you want the lens flare to end. This will be the point in the video when the light source has gone out of view. If you don’t have an actual light source, you’ll have to follow the camera’s speed to emulate the effect of having one and place your cursor at the point where the light source should realistically be. 

Using the Flare Center option again, move the lens flare relative to the direction the light source is moving. You may also want to try turning down the Flare Brightness as the camera moves and the light source gets further away. If your light source eventually moves off-screen or is no longer visible, turn down the Flare Brightness all the way.

Animating the lens flare is a time-consuming task. You’ll need to keep a lot of the environmental factors of the shot in mind to create the most natural sun flare. 

Tip: When any object passes over your light source, turn down the Flare Brightness when it does so and turn it back up once it’s passed. 

Creating a Sun Glare Effect in Adobe Premiere Pro

Sun glare can be a great addition to a video or intro. It can be a big help, for example, if you want to create the illusion of sun or sunlight. It adds depth to the environment and increases the visual allure. 

You can also create a lens glare effect in Adobe After Effects or download overlay templates or preset packs to use in Premiere. However, if you need a quicker option that gets the job done, using Adobe Premiere Pro’s lens flare effect can create one that’s just as good. 

What Is Artboard In Photoshop And How To Create It?

Photoshop, though used by millions of users around the world and the most well-entrenched industry standard in graphic design, digital art, and photo editing, remains something of an enigma to many users still scratching at the surface of the software’s full potential. While the basic toolset and layout are easy to grasp, it is the more off-the-beaten-path features that make Photoshop the incredibly powerful image creation tool it is. Sadly, however, it is exactly these key features that are too often left untapped by most users.

Down below, we’ll take a quick look at one such tool, Artboards, and give you a simple and easy-to-use explanation of how artboards work and why you should consider integrating them into your workflow — be it UX design, concept art, or photo editing.

Related: How to Make Photoshop Brushes for Beginners (So You Can Stop Asking!)

What is an Artboard in Photoshop?

Artboards in Photoshop are essentially just special container groups that act like individual canvases within the same document. Because each one serves the function of a singular canvas, it is an excellent tool for interface and UX design for things like apps and websites that require several screens, often reusing images and other assets throughout.

By using Artboards, you can illustrate a user’s path through multiple screens without necessitating multiple documents and reuse a singular pool of assets — helping designers iterate, preserve theme, and see the proverbial forest along with the trees. By using artboards, users can not only speed up their workflow but can make exporting and sharing their ideas even easier.

Why Artboards are Useful

The artboard itself will automatically clip layers/images whenever any part of their pixel-area enters their canvas. This makes it great for quickly finding the crop you want and iterating compositions of individual layouts. One of the best features of artboards is the ability to use and reuse image assets across artboards. For instance, using the photograph of the canyon above, we are able to use the same photo on different screens of the same app, and, more importantly, store the photo outside of any particular canvas. 

This allows you to quickly iterate ideas and move assets around in an intuitive, time-efficient way. Each asset, when clipped inside of an artboard is included under that artboard’s layer group in the layer menu. When stored outside the canvas, that particular layer is separated from any layer group and will no longer be registered as part of any artboard.

Another excellent use-case for artboards is to create easily accessible references for artists. While there are great programs like PureRef that are designed specifically for creating large-scale reference boards, using the artboard feature can speed up artists who use a lot of photobashing in their work by storing them as layers outside the canvas. 

Related: How to Flip Canvas in Photoshop: Shortcuts and Menu Location

How to Create Artboards in Photoshop

Down below we’ll run you through the basic steps to set up and control your artboards as well as export them for external use.

Step 1: Create a New Document

The first thing you’ll have to do is, well, create an artboard of course. To do this, all you have to do is make sure you check the artboards option besides the orientation in the new document panel. This option will automatically be selected when choosing a format from the Web or Mobile option. 

When you create a new document using Artboards, the first Artboard’s layer group will automatically be generated in the layer menu. 

Step 2: Adding New Artboards

Adding new artboards in Photoshop is as simple as tapping on the artboard name and pressing any of the plus signs on the side of the artboard. Photoshop will automatically shift your cursor to the next plus sign, allowing you to quickly add any number of boards.

Step 3: Renaming Artboards

Step 4: Exporting Artboards

And that’s the gist of using artboards; within their outward simplicity comes numerous great workflow-enhancing capabilities, so make sure to experiment and find out how they can best be integrated into your own process. 


How To Create Depth Of Field In Photoshop (Easiest Way)

If you lack the depth of field you were hoping for after importing your photos from the day, you can call on Photoshop to create a realistic depth of field with a few easy steps. This effect is easy to go overboard with, so make sure to be sparing with the blur adjustments for the most realistic look.

But hey, art is subjective, so go crazy with it if that’s your style.

Let’s dive in.

Video Tutorial

How To Create Depth In A Photo In Photoshop

Depth of field in photography is how much of an image can be in focus due to the aperture setting. The wider your aperture, the less can be in focus, and therefore the shallower your depth of field.

There are many ways of enhancing the depth of field in a photo in Photoshop, including using the Blur Tool. However, I will show you a much easier way to do this.

Using the new Depth Blur neural filter, you can simulate the depth of field effect created with a camera. Besides, the results can be very realistic, depending on how you adjust the filter settings. The customization options are many, as you will see next.

Step 1: Convert Your Image To A Smart Object Step 2: Open The Neural Filters Gallery

Scroll down the neural filters gallery and choose Depth Blur. Remember that this is a Beta filter, which means it is under development, so sometimes it doesn’t work as great as you would expect.

After downloading the Depth Blur neural filter, you need to activate it, and you can start using it right away. 

Step 3: Set The Focal Point

The first thing to do is to select your focal point. This controls the areas in your image that will be in focus versus what areas will be out of focus.

To do this, you have two options.

The first option is to let Photoshop automatically select the focal point for you.

This way, Photoshop determines what will be in focus and what will not be. This is an excellent option when you have a person in your photo or an object highlighted in the image scene.

Below you can see how this setting worked out for my photo.

You can also set custom focal points manually.

Once you create your focal point, you will notice your image will change. It will be blurred in the areas outside the focal point area.

Step 4: Set The Focal Range

The next thing to do is to set the focal range. 

Focal range determines how much of your photo will be sharp and how much will be blurred. The lower the focal range, the more blurry areas will be in the areas outside the focal point.

Keeping areas in focus while leaving others out of focus in real life has to do with a camera’s aperture. For example, more areas outside the focal point will be out of focus or blurry when using a wide aperture.

The Depth of field filter mimics the effect caused by the camera. For example, When the focal range is set to zero, everything that is not within the focal point range will be blurred. And when the focal range is 100, everything outside the focus area will be sharp. At other values, parts of your image will appear in focus while others will appear less in focus. 

I recommend you use higher values for Focal Range because it creates a more realistic and natural effect, similar to what can be achieved with a real camera.

Focal Range set to 100 – both car and background look sharp Focal range set to zero – the background is blurred while the car is in focus. Focal range at 50 – the car is on focus, and the background is mildly blurred

Step 5: Adjust The Blur Strength

The next setting available is Blur Strength, where you can adjust the amount of blur applied. This will depend on the style you are going for. However, remember that too much blur makes your image look unrealistic. On the other hand, using a low amount of blur will make your effect look more realistic.

Blur Strength at 22 Blur Strength at 90

Step 6: Adjust Haze

Another setting you can adjust is Haze.

This works like an additional effect setting to your depth of field effect, simulating a haze in your scene. The effect is more suitable for photos of foggy days or beach photos to make the environment seem more appealing and make the picture stand out more. However, on images of sunny days, this is not a good choice.

Below you can see how this effect worked out for my photo.

Haze at 36

(Optional) Step 7: Use The Adjustment Sliders To Correct Color

Moving down the Depth Blur sliders, you can find options to alter the entire photo. For example, changing a photo’s colors from warm to cool.

Although changing these sliders may seem a good idea, it’s better to use the Depth of Field filter for its primary purpose. Besides, you can find the equivalent to these sliders in Photoshop main workspace using the adjustment layers or Camera Raw, for example.

Step 8: Apply The Effect

After editing your depth blur, you need to choose the output method.

Choosing Output Depth Map only, you create a version of your image based on the blur levels in grayscale.

That can be useful for many purposes, including refining the depth blur effect later.

The darker the areas, the more in focus your object is. The lighter the area, the more blurred the area is.

You can also opt for the other listed output options at the bottom of the neural filters panel.

I wanted a very subtle blur for the final image to make it appear as realistic as possible with a wide-angle lens. I set the settings as followings:

Focal range = 63

Blur Strength = 22

No Haze nor additional effects applied

Before After

As you saw here, creating depth of field in Photoshop is very easy, and you can do it in minutes. The Depth Blur neural filter has been a great help to me when I couldn’t achieve the depth of field I wanted with my camera. I’m sure you can also create stunning depth-of-field effects using this filter once you experiment with the settings it has to offer!

How To Create Duotone Colors In Photoshop (Step By Step)

Creating a duotone image in Photoshop is an impressive way to make your photo pop. This design technique converts your image to only two colors of your choice. The result is a bold, striking picture highlighting the photo’s contrast.

There are two main methods to achieve the duotone effect when using Photoshop, and your method of choice should depend on your strengths. If you are comfortable using selections and masking techniques, choose option one. If you are more confident using gradients, then the second option is best for you.

When creating the duotone effect, a top tip is to use a high-contrast photo with a relatively simple background, as these images will produce the best result.

How To Create Duotone Colors In Photoshop

When adding a duotone effect to an image, you essentially add one color to the highlights and a second color to the shadows. Once you have selected your image and opened it in Photoshop, think about the colors you want to add and get started.

Step 1: Select The Highlights In The Image Using Channels

The first step is to isolate the highlights in the photo to add one color to those areas only. Using channels is a quick and super easy way to select the highlights (or shadows) in an image.

Open the Channels panel, which should be located in a panel tab next to the Layers panel. 

When using the RGB color mode, you will see four color channels: one with all the colors, then separate ones, each showing one color channel, Red, Green, and Blue. You must go through the individual color channels and decide which looks the best.

Your final duotone image will look like the color channel you select, with your two colors added to the shadows and highlights. So choose a channel that matches how you want the final result to look, which will be different for every image.

I like the Blue channel because it offers the most contrast for my picture, and I want a bold final result.

Once you’ve made the selection, you will see that the marching ants select only the highlights on the canvas.

Step 2: Add A Solid Fill Color To The Highlights

Now, you can use any method in the Color Picker to add your chosen color. You can add a HEX code, the RGB or CMYK values, or move the cursor around the color panel to find a color that works best. Since you are working with the highlights, you should choose a light color unless you want an inverted effect.

Move the color around to see a few different results.

Once you’ve selected your color, press OK to confirm your choice and close the Color Picker.

You have now added the color of your highlights to the photo.

Step 3: Add A Solid Fill Color To The Shadows

Adding a solid color to the shadows in the image is even easier since you have already isolated the highlights. Now you just need to add a color that only covers the shadows in the picture. To do this, select the background or image layer in the Layers panel.

The new fill layer will appear above the background layer but below the highlights layer. This ensures that the fill color only affects the shadows since the layer mask above has isolated the highlights.

You can now choose a color for the shadows in the Color Picker. Remember, a darker color works best since you are adding to the shadows.

You have now successfully created a duotone effect on your photo.

Step 4: Adjust The Colors As Needed

Since the process is entirely non-destructive, and your background layer is still intact, you can add any other edits you need and change the colors at any time. 

You can do this as many times as you need to find the perfect color combination for your image.

Using Gradient Maps To Create The Duotone Effect

The second method to create a duotone effect on a photo is using a Gradient Map adjustment layer. This method is even simpler than the previous method and offers a similar amount of control over the final result.

Step 1: Add A Gradient Map Adjustment Layer

Once your image is open in Photoshop, add a Gradient Map adjustment layer by opening the Adjustments panel and selecting the Gradient Map icon, which is the last icon in the list.

Once the Gradient Map is added to the image, the colors on the canvas become the two gradient colors. The colors and gradients added depend on the previous settings used when adding gradients to your projects. You can see the gradient settings in the Properties panel. 

In my case, a black-to-white gradient was added to the image. This shows how the duotone will look, and all that’s left is for me to change the colors. If you don’t have a black-to-white gradient yet, that’s fine. You can change it in the next step.

Step 2: Open The Gradient Editor

The Gradient Editor window opens, allowing you to change all the gradient settings.

First, if your gradient doesn’t have two colors, you can change this to make selecting the two new colors easier. To change the gradient type, open the Basics tab in the gradient presets section and select the black-to-white gradient.

Now, you can move on to change the shadows and highlights colors.

Step 3: Select A Color For The Shadows

To select a color for the shadows, you need to change the black color in the gradient, or if you don’t have a black-to-white gradient, you will change whatever color is on the left of the gradient bar.

Your gradient has the new color for the shadows added to the bar.

Step 4: Select A Color For The Highlights

You can now add the highlights color by repeating the above step using the color stop on the far right of the gradient bar.

You have successfully created a duotone color effect using a Gradient map on your image. 

This process is also non-destructive, as the gradient map is automatically added to a separate layer in the Layers panel.

You can change the colors anytime by selecting the Gradient map layer and opening the Gradient Editor in the Properties panel. Play around with the colors until you find the right combination for your photo.

With each of these methods, you can create the duotone effect in a way that suits your workflow. I personally prefer the simplicity of the Gradient Maps, but if you aren’t comfortable working with gradients, the first option using channels, will be right up your alley!

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